Watford, Urban and Rural

139. WATFORD, Urban and Rural.

(O.S. 6 in. ^(a)xxxviii. S.E. ^(b)xliv. N.W. ^(c)xliv. S.W.)

Ecclesiastical

^b(1). Parish Church of St. Mary, stands on the S.W. side of High Street near the centre of the town. All the walls are faced with modern flint, the dressings are of stone, and the roofs are covered with lead. The only traces of a 12th-century building are fragments of masonry, found during repairs, which are now in the N. chapel. The oldest work now standing is of c. 1230, and consists of the walls of the Chancel, the chancel arch and the S. arcade of the Nave. The South Chapel, the North and South Aisles, the shallow Transept Chapels and the enclosed West Tower are apparently of the 15th century, and the North Chapel was built in 1595–6. The whole building was re-faced in 1871, and the North and South Porches are modern.

Architectural Description—The Chancel (39 ft. by 20 ft.) has a 15th-century E. window of five lights, much restored. In the N. wall is a late 15th-century arcade opening into the N. chapel; it is of two bays with four-centred arches, and a central pillar of the Tuscan order. In the S. wall there is a 15th-century arcade of two bays with four-centred arches, opening into the S. chapel. The chancel arch is of the 13th century, and of two chamfered orders, with half octagonal responds having moulded bases and capitals. The North Chapel (39 ft. by 21 ft.) known as the Essex Chapel, was built by Bridget, Countess of Bedford in 1595–6. The square-headed E. window is of five lights with a transom. The N. window is of three lights under a square head, and is blocked by a tomb. The South Chapel (32 ft. by 13 ft.) has, in the S. wall, a 15th-century window of three lights with modern tracery. The W. arch is modern. The Nave (71 ft. by 25 ft.) has arcades of six bays; the N. arcade is of the 15th century, with pointed arches of two chamfered orders; the S. arcade has arches and responds of c. 1230, but the pillars have been renewed, three of them in the 15th century, the two others in the 19th century. The clearstorey is of the 15th century, and has windows of three cinque-foiled lights. In the N.E. angle of the nave is the upper doorway of the rood-loft stairs. The Transept Chapels contain no original detail. The North Aisle (9½ ft. wide) has a 15th-century N. doorway, and the rear arches of the two windows are of the same date. In the South Aisle (9½ ft. wide) only the rear arch of the S. doorway is old. The West Tower (16 ft. square) is of three stages with a plain parapet; there is a small leaded spire. The E. arch is modern, but the arches opening into the aisles are of the 15th century, and of three continuous chamfered orders. The W. doorway and window, and the bell-chamber windows are almost entirely modern. The Roof of the nave has 15th century tie-beams resting on carved stone corbels. The moulded tie-beams and wall plates of the chancel roof are of the same period.

Fittings—Brasses and Indents: on N. wall of chancel, formerly on the floor, of man in judge's robes, and a woman, said to be Hugh de Holes, 1415, and his wife, 1416, full length figures much worn, part of man's figure missing; brass plate above records removal: on same wall, to Henry Baldwyn, 1601, inscription only, in two pieces: on floor of N. chapel, of Henry Dickson, 1610, George Miller, 1613, and Anthony Cooper (undated), servants of the Morrison family, three figures and inscription on one brass: on floor of S. aisle, slab with indents of figure and marginal inscription. Chests: two, at W. end of the nave, 17th-century. Monuments: in N. chapel, large mural monument, black marble, of Sir Charles Moryson, 1628; with alabaster effigies of himself, in armour, and two sons; inscription and arms: mural monument, alabaster and black marble, with female figure kneeling before desk, under canopy, c. 1580; biblical inscription on desk; arms with seven quarterings: on N. wall of chancel, tablet to Henry Ewer of the Lea, 1667, and his wife 1649, their son and grandchildren; inscription and arms of Ewer. Piscina: double, in S. wall of chancel, 13th-century. Plate: includes cup of 1561, cup and cover paten of 1610, all silver-gilt; two bread holders of 1637: two flagons of 1628: alms-dish of 1642. Pulpit: hexagonal, carved and moulded, with inlaid panels, c. 1670. Miscellanea: near N. doorway, small recess, 15th-century, probably part of a stoup. Built into W. wall of N. aisle, outside, coffin slab with part of carved cross, 14th-century.

Condition—Structually good, owing to extensive restorations, but some stonework in the old windows shows signs of decay.

^c(2). Oxhey Chapel, opposite Oxhey Place, about 2 miles S. of St. Mary's Church, is a small rectangular building of flint and brick, the E. wall being entirely of 2-in. bricks; the roof is tiled. It was built by Sir James Altham in 1612, possibly on the site of a former chapel, but from 1799 it was used as a lumber-room until it was repaired in 1852. It was again restored in 1897, and a small W. porch was added. All the windows have plain uncusped lights with four-centred heads; some of the external stonework is modern.

Fittings—Chair: elaborately carved, foreign, apparently 16th-century. Door: in W. doorway, original. Monument: on S. wall, to Sir James Altham, 1616, and his wife, 1638: near it, tablet recording the building of the chapel in 1612. Reredos: of Renaissance design, c. 1690, said to be of oak from the old house of Oxhey Place, pulled down in 1688. Woodwork: at the W. end of the chapel, also of c. 1690. The 17th-century altar-rails have been removed to St. Matthew's Church, Oxhey.

Condition—Good, owing to the restorations of 1897.

Secular

^{b, c}(3). Oxhey Hall, now a farmhouse, surrounded by a Moat, stands about 1½ miles S. of St. Mary's Church. It was probably built in the first half of the 16th century, but has been much altered and restored. In a room on the ground floor is a fine oak panelled ceiling, with massive moulded beams, and carved roses, etc., in the panels. A little of the timber construction can be seen in a passage at the back of the house.

Condition—Of house, good. Of moat, good, except E. arm.

^b(4). Cassiobury, stands in a park on the N.W. side of the town. It incorporates part of the building begun by Sir Charles Morrison c. 1545, and completed by his son Charles, who succeeded him, in 1556. The first Earl of Essex employed Hugh May to rebuild the house, with the exception of the W. wing, in the 17th century. May's building was pulled down c. 1800, and the present house was built by James Wyatt, who re-used much of the old material and possibly some of the old walls. The house is built round a courtyard, and is entered from the N.W. This front and the inner walls of the courtyard appear to be the oldest parts, though none of the walls can be definitely dated. Some of the outbuildings on the W. of the house, and the wall connecting them, may be of the same date as the front. Interior: the Cloister, on the S.W. side of the courtyard, has five traceried windows containing glass with heraldic shields, and some 17th-century fragments of strapwork designs, panels of Biblical subjects, etc.: in a window at the N.W. end is some 16th-century glass representing the Virgin and Child and St. Anne. The main staircase at the S.E. end of this cloister is said to be the work of Grinling Gibbons. It has elaborate square newels, with carved heads, a massive carved and moulded handrail, and a richly carved balustrade. In the Small Dining Room is a small piece of Jacobean panelling. Most of the principal rooms contain woodwork, which may be of late 17th-century date, including panelling, with large carved festoons of fruit and foliage, cornices carved with acanthus leaves, etc. In the floor of the porch are two brasses of c. 1510, one of a man and the other of a woman.

Condition—Good throughout.

^b(5). The Vicarage, S. of the church, is a plastered timber house, of two storeys, built probably early in the 17th century, but parts of it may be older. The plan is half H-shaped, facing N. and S., the entrance being in the middle. In the W. wing is an early 17th-century timber ceiling and other woodwork.

Condition—Good.

High Street, S. side

^b(6). The Compasses Inn, at the corner of Market Street, has a small 15th-century oak window of two cinque-foiled lights. It was discovered during some alterations, and re-set in the outer wall.

Condition—Good.

^b(7). The Hit or Miss Inn, is a plastered timber building, probably of the 17th century, completely restored and altered.

Condition—Good.

N. side

^b(8). Monmouth House and the Platts, now Nos. 11 and 13, were formerly a dower house, built by Robert Carey, Earl of Monmouth, early in the 17th century. The building is three-storeyed, of red brick, with tiled roofs. It was divided into two houses in the 18th century, and in 1820 the part called Monmouth House was re-modelled and covered with cement. The Platts retains the original red brick facing, and has two gables in front and two large projecting chimney stacks at the S. end. The window frames are almost all modern. Several rooms contain early 17th-century panelling, and in the dining room is a large oak fire-place, with a four-centred moulded arch, and Ionic columns on each side; above the arch are plain panels separated by Doric columns, surmounted by a large cornice. The oak staircase is also of the 17th century, with moulded rails, turned balusters and large square newels with moulded finials. In an outhouse is a heavy oak panelled door, much dilapidated, probably originally the entrance door.

Condition—Good; Monmouth House much altered.

^b(9). House, opposite Farthing Lane, now a shop and dwelling house, is of the 17th century, and of two storeys and an attic. The walls are of brick and timber, partly covered with cement; the roofs are tiled, and have dormer windows. Between the two parts of the house is a wide gateway; the three chimney stacks are original.

Condition—Good.

^b(10). The Angel Inn, is a brick and timber house with an overhanging upper storey, built at the end of the 16th century; the roof is tiled. The plan is rectangular, and at the N. end is a wide gateway, with a room over it supported on heavy beams; the roof of this part is higher than the rest. There is a large central chimney stack, but the shafts have been re-built, and the windows are modern. The interior of the house shows the original timber construction, and has been little altered.

Condition—Good.

^b(11). The Old Vicarage (remains), now two cottages and a storehouse, in Fenn's Yard, off the High Street, is a two-storeyed brick and timber building of the 16th century, plastered outside, and with tiled roofs. The plan is long and narrow, and has a projecting two-storeyed timber porch in the middle of the front. The cottages S. of the porch have two gables; the porch has a flat-headed moulded doorway; the open upper sides and front have turned balusters, placed widely apart; the upper storey projects slightly and is gabled. The storehouse N. of the porch was probably the kitchen, and contains a large open fireplace. Inside the cottages there is some carved oak panelling and a chimney piece of the 17th century. The Tithe Barn, W. of the house, is a large rectangular timber building, probably of the 16th century. The roof is tiled and has queen-post trusses.

Condition—Of house, somewhat dilapidated; part of the original building has been pulled down. Of barn, fairly good, but the roof is in bad condition, especially at the W. end.

^b(12). The Free School, S. of the churchyard, is a square brick house, with projecting stone quoins and an open wood bell-turret on the roof. It was built in 1704, and endowed in 1708 by Mrs. Elizabeth Fuller. In one of the class-rooms is an oak chimney piece of late 16th or early 17th-century date, evidently brought from elsewhere; on each side of the fireplace is a large moulded pilaster, and above it are square and oval panels divided by Ionic columns with carved ornaments at the corners, and surmounted by a deep cornice.

Condition—Good.

^b(13). Almshouses, eight, near Church Street, built by Francis, Earl of Bedford, in 1580. They are two-storeyed buildings of timber and plaster; the roofs are tiled. In front are five gables, and the original window frames, repaired. Four original chimney stacks, with two shafts each, also remain.

Condition—Good.

^b(14). Cottage, in Church Street, is of plastered timber with an original brick chimney stack, probably of late 17th-century date.

Condition—Good.

^b(15). Ballard's Buildings, in an alley off Church Street, are two-storeyed red brick cottages, probably of late 17th-century date, with original chimney stacks. The front is of early 18th-century date, with moulded brickwork, and a wooden hood with curved brackets over the entrance.

Condition—Fairly good.

^b(16). Cottages, four in Farthing Lane, are of the 17th century. They are two-storeyed red brick buildings, and the upper storey of one is covered with cement. The roofs are tiled, and two cottages are gabled.

Condition—In bad repair.

^b(17). Cottages, four, in Water Lane, are 17th-century buildings of two storeys, the lower storey of brick, the upper weather-boarded. The roofs are tiled, and there are two original square chimney stacks.

Condition—Out of repair.

^b(18). Cottages, several, in the hamlet of Cassio, of brick and timber, with original chimney stacks, are probably of the 17th century.

Condition—Fairly good.

^a(19). Cottage, at Buckshill Bottom, about 1¼ miles E. of the village of Sarratt, is built of timber, plaster and brick; the roofs are tiled. It is a narrow rectangular building with a central projecting porch of two storeys, and is of early 17th-century date. The internal arrangement shows that it must have been used at one time as three separate cottages, each entered from the porch, and each having its own staircase. The porch has remains of a wooden balustrade high up in the side walls; the upper room projects slightly beyond the lower part.

Condition—Poor; the timber-work in the walls is decaying, especially in the porch, and the whole building needs repair.

^a(20). Cottage, in the village of Buckshill, about ¾ of a mile N.E. of Sarratt, is a two-storeyed rectangular building of brick and timber, with a projecting central porch, and a small projecting wing at the back; the roofs are tiled. The porch is covered with rough-cast, and has an overhanging upper storey; on the lintel of the outer doorway is carved the date and initials I 1696 A. The window over this is original, and has three lights and lead glazing, and at the back of the house there is another original window of two lights. The central chimney stack has three square shafts.

Condition—Fairly good.

^a(21). Chandler's Farm, at Chandler's Cross, about 2½ miles N.W. of the town, is a two-storeyed house, possibly of late 17th-century date. It is built of brick, with an upper storey of brick and timber; the roofs are tiled. The plan is rectangular, facing S., with a slightly projecting block at the E. end. At the back is a large plain chimney stack. Some of the ceilings have old beams in them.

Condition—Fairly good.