Feb. 23.
Annapolis Royall. |
673. A Journall of ye Travails of Major John Livingstone
from Annapolis Royall in Novia Scotia to Quebeck in Canada,
from thence to Albany and soe to Boston, begun Oct. 15, and
ended Feb. 23, 1710/11. Sunday morning, Oct. 15, I recd. orders
from Genll. Francis Nicholson, Govr. Saml. Vetch, and ye Council
of War to prepare to goe to Cannada, and received from them a
pass and instructions, with a letter to ye Govr. of Canada. And
Monsr. Subercase, late Govr. of Port Royall for the King of
France on his part ordered ye Baron de St. Casteen to goe in
company with me, and also gave us his pass for safe conduct in
our journey; and ye same day the Genll. with gentlemen embarkt
in order to goe to Boston. I waited upon him on board H.M.S.
Dragon, Capt. George Martin, Commander of ye Fleet, where it
was ordered that a sloop should carry me as far as Penobscot, a
Plantation of Indians, under ye French interest (about 80 leagues
from Annapolis Royall) from whence I was to travel by land to
Cannada. Oct. 16–21. Describes voyage. About 10 of ye clock we
came up with Little Menan, and from Little Menan to Squeek
Point three leagues course W., and then steered N.W. 4 leagues
up a good channell. We came here to an anchor in 15 fathom
water. Monsr. Casteen sent Monsr. Belell and an Indian named
Victor in my birch canoo to look for some Indians to goe
on our journey wth. us; who were to return ye next day. The
harbour was very good, and I named it St. Casteen's harbour.
Oct. 22. My provisions was all gott on shoar; there came an
Indian in his birch canoe alongside and landed where our provisions were, and soon after brought his family there with him,
etc. Oct. 23. M. Belell and Victor returned, and told us they
had met wth. some Indians, but could not perswade them to
come till the sloop was sailed; they had met with such bad
weather that my canoe was staved all to peices, so yt. we were
forced to stay here for want of canoes; they alsoe brought wth.
them a French man, and I went on shore and lodged wth. St.
Casteen and some Indians. Oct. 24. This day ye wind was
moderate and I discharged ye sloop. M. St. Casteen sent Victor
with two Indians more to ye village of Penobscot 30 leagues to
gett canoos and Indians to goe with us to Canada. I here bought
sanpsacks of Mr. Moor, and gave him order to Mr. Borland for
payment. About 6 a clock afternoon, M. Casteen, myselfe and
servant three French men, and one Indian in 3 canoes went to
M. Casteen's house about 3 leagues from ye landing-place; here
I had very civill and friendly treatment etc. Oct. 26th. I bought
a new canoe and padles of John Denell, wch. cost 92 livers, and
I hired M. Belell and Denell and another man to goe with me to
meet ye Indians yt. were to goe to Canada, and gave them 4
livers per diem; we embarqued about one a clock afternoon, and
M. St. Casteen with his canoe and men went with us; we lodged
that night at ye point where our things were. Oct. 28. The
wind blew extreem hard till 2 a clock. About 10 we took our
canoes, and with much difficulty crossed a bay, and one of our
canoos filled halfe full of water; at last we came to a very narrow
place full of rocks all bare at low water, and no passage our
course S.W., we then opened a large sound, and an Island on ye
South, and ye main on ye N.W., where we were forced to stay
till two a clock in ye morning, then the wind duller'd, and we
embarqued into our canoes again, and crossed two bays each four
leagues wide, to ye southward at a distance we saw abundance of
Islands. The last night we killed a goose and seven ducks, and
there came an Indian and his squaw and two children to us, and
said he had been fighting against the English at Winter Harbour,
and they had killed three and taken six prisoners. This last 24
hours we have gone 10 leagues. Oct. 29. This day we steered
N.W. about 12 leagues and then went up a small river about one
league, and there met a carrying place about a mile long, wch.
brought us into a Bay of the River of Penobscot; we carryed
most of our things over, except our canoos, we passed Great Bays
in this day's voyage and saw abundance of Islands to ye S.W. and
W. of us, all ye east side is yt. main land; we this day killed
about a dusn. ducks. Oct. 30. The weather clear, etc., we
brought our canoos over ye carrying place, and about nine in ye
morning entered them and departed thence and about 10 a clock
we came to a wigwam in wch. was a squaw, and some children,
she told us her husband was gone a hunting, and directed us to
an Island called ye Island of Lett, wch. was over against a ruined
fort called Shamble formerly taken by ye Dutch, where we might
probably meet with Indians, we forthwith sett forward, where
about 12 a clock we arrived, our course W. and W. by South
3 leagues; and about one of ye clock there arrived about 35 canoes
from Penobscot and a Jesuitt, Pier La Shas, with them and one
of ye English prisoners yt. was taken at Winter Harbour, who
said there were five more taken wth. him, and 3 killed in Oct. last,
and that there was 90 canoes and about 150 Indians: here we
lodged this night. December (sic) 31st. We stayed still at
these Islands for ye Indians that were gone another way to Mons.
Casteen for us; Mons. Belell, John Denell and two french men
more returned home, and gave Casteen orders to receive at
Quebeck what I was to pay them for their assistance thus far;
here I bought for my journey six pair of Indian shoes cost 18d.
per pr., a bear skin 9s., six pair of snow shoes cost £3 12s., and
wrote by Belell to Col. Vetch and oblidged myselfe to pay at
Quebeck 30 a ps. for ye 3 French men. Nov. 1st. Ye Indians
yt. we waited for arrived this evening, and brought us word that
ye English prisoner yt. went a hunting with his master had
made his escape, and carryed away his master's canoe and
gun and left him alone on an Island, whom they by accident
mett there and brought of with them. This relation set ye
Indians in such a fury yt. nothing but my life could sattisfie
them, saying I had advised ye prisoner to run away and die I
should, and one of them flew at me with his hatchett, and taking
hold of my collar was about to murder me immediately, but ye
Baron St. Casteen interposed and endeavoured to pacifie them,
saying I was an Ambassadour; they replyed ye English killed
some of their Penobscot men yt. they sent as Ambassadours at
Casco, and now they had this oppertunity they would kill me, but
by Casteen's perswasions they desisted for ye present. This
night a great part of our wigwam was blown away, and we exposed
to ye weather and were wet to ye skin, and under apprehensions
of being killed every minute, our bloody entertainers continuing
their rage in such manner yt. I was at last forced to left out all
my kegs of rum for fear of ye event, if they should gett that in
their hands, and we suffered much after in our journey for want
of it. Nov. 2. This day many more Indians arrived in their
canoes, who were of ye same mind with ye other yt. I must be
murdered, and an unspeakable noise and clamour was made
amongst them, so yt. all this while death was expected by me,
but Mons. Casteen endeavoured to pacifie them, and had it not
been for him I had certainly lost my life in a barbarous manner.
I made a present of some Indian Jewells and tobacco to ye cheife
men among them, and to those six men who were to goe with
us, who would not stir till I promised them £15 a man for their
journey, and Mons. Casteen told me they alwayes had so much
for a journey in summer, and we might expect this ten times
worse. This night they were something better pacifyed, and
promised us we should depart for Cannada ye next day; here
arrived an Indian in ye evening from thence who told me ye snow
was knee deep upon ye mountains and ye rivers full of ice, here I
bought six pair of Indian shoes and four mattunyes to carry with
etc. Nov. 3. M. Casteen, myselfe and servant wth. six Indians
embarqued, and went six leagues up ye River of Penobscot, our
course generally N.E. and N.N.E. ye river very crooked, and we
took up our lodging at ye west side of it; we me[t] two canoos of
Indians in our way. Nov. 4. We imbarqued very early and were
pestered with ye ice, and at 10 a clock met 5 canoes of Indians
and went on shoar and eat our breakfast together, they presented
us with a bever; at ye Riplings ye water runs very feirce, and ye
canoe in wch. all my cloaths and provisions and my fusee were
oversett, and I lost all but what was about me, as good fortune
would have it, I had my letters from ye Generall, Govr. Vetch
etc. in a tin box in my pockett and saved them. Lost alsoe in
said canoe a bag of porke and one of pease and one of bread, and
my blankett yt. I had to cover me, we spent some time in looking
our things. The water run so prodigious strong yt. one of ye
Indians were drowned when ye canoe oversett, we went nine
leagues, three of them against ye Riplings, ye River continued
very crooked, our course generally N.E. and N.N.E. Nov. 5. We
began our journey this morning with a carrying place and underwent great difficulty by reason of ye ice and extreem cold, ye
weather cloudy with small snow etc. Ye carrying place was on
ye west side of ye River, about a mile long course N.N.E., and then
west about one league, and came to another carrying place on ye
same side of ye River, and about ye same length very bad way.
about two leagues farther I met another carrying place about a
mile and an halfe long, on ye east side of ye river, thus far ye
River runs N.N.E. generally; here it parts into three branches,
one runs E.N.E., one N.N.E., ye other N.N.W., ye branch that
runs N.N.W. is right over against ye upper end of ye carrying
place, where we crossed ye River, we took ye westermost branch,
and about 3 leagues farther met another carrying place which is
a small Island 200 yards long, and about four leagues farther we
met a river yt. runs to ye westward, wch. we left, and alwayes took
ye eastermost; about a league farther we came to a carrying
place, and then mett with Riplings for two leagues, and travel'd
a league farther and took up our lodgings, where was two wigwams
of Indians. I hired one Indian here to goe with us, instead of
him we lost. This day we found a bever in a trap, wch. gave us
all a supper. This River runs N.W. and N.N.W. very crooked, and
ye land extreem low, we travelled this day 15 leagues. Nov. 6.
We embarqued very early in ye morning, we mett with much ice,
and about 30 bever dams, and were forced to unlade our canoes
at most of them; on the East side of ye River are two carrying
places, one halfe a mile long, ye other a mile and halfe long, and
then came into ye same River again, and were forced in many
places to draw our canoes for want of water, at ye west side of
this little River, we carryed our canoes, and took up our lodgings
at the foot of ye carrying place, having this day travelled 12
leagues. This River runs N.E. and N., and chiefly N.N.W., and
very crooked. Nov. 7. At night snowed hard soe that we had
it knee deep in ye morning. We marched over a carrying place
three mile long very bad way, then went about two miles farther
up ye River, and on ye east side of ye River mett with another
carrying-place, ye way extraordinary bad about a league, which
brought us to a lake about a mile long and ye same breadth, and
were forced to break the ice ye whole length, and landed on ye
other side with much difficulty, and found a carrying place of 3
leagues and halfe long, very bad way, course N.N.W. ye trees
markt; we came to another branch of Penobscot River about
200 yds. wide, and we went four leagues up ye River, mett a
Ripling, and had almost lost a canoe. We went this day 11½
leagues, and took up our lodgings on the west side of sd. River.
Nov. 8. It snowed very hard till 9 a clock in ye morning, ye wind
N.W., we sett out then and went about a league and mett with
a Ripling, and about a league and a halfe farther come to a
carrying place a mile and halfe long, and then went two leagues
and came to another carrying place of about ye same length, both
on ye East side of ye River ye trees marked, course N.W., and
then ye River widened in ye form of a lake about one mile, we
were about four leagues and were forced on shoar (because ye
wind blew extreem hard at N.W.), and took up our lodging upon
a point on ye east side. It snowed pretty much this day; we
travelled about 9 leagues course N.N.W. and N.W. Nov. 9. We
began our journey early in ye morning, weather clear and very
cold. When we turned ye point mett a great sea yt. filled our
canoes halfe full of water, and was ice as it fell, the River a full
league wide, and so continued for 3 or 4 leagues, without Islands,
which rendered ye passage very dangerous, as well as difficult;
at ye north side we mett with ice for 500 yards, wh. forced us to
much toile and labour to breake through, and about a mile farther
up a little River mett a small carrying place, and then went up
sd. river, wh. was full of Riplings for two leagues, and then came
to another carrying place, where we took up our lodging and
travell'd but seven leagues, our course cheifly N. and N.N.W.
We killed a small bever this day. Nov. 10. The weather clear
and cold, we began our journey this morning without our canoes,
they being soe torn and cut with ye ice yt. they were rendered
wholly unserviceable to us, having passed over a carrying place
a league and halfe long we came to a pond full of ice, in crossing
of wh. I fell in over head and ears and wet me through, being gott
out my cloaths immediatly froze stiff on my back, and lost ye key
of my watch, which much troubled me, fearing it would be unfitt
for further service in ye journey; we came soon after to a carrying
place a league long, our course all north, the trees here were
markt, wh. brought us over; at 3 a clock we mett another pond
about a league and halfe long and two mile wide, some part of
it froze, but not hard enough to bear us; so was forced here to
take up our lodgings, and to add to our perplexity found our
provisions began to prove very shortt. Nov. 11. This last 24
hours we had abundance of rain and snow, and could not travell
this day, so made us a wigwam. Nov. 12. The weather was
now fair, ye wind N.W. not very cold, soe begun our march round
the S.E. side of ye Lake, ye ice being too weak to bear us, and
went two leagues course S.E. and E.S.E. two leagues, E. 3 leagues,
N.N.E. two leagues, and N. one, and N.N.W. one, where we
came upon a carrying place yt. goes from ye lake we lay at to
another; this day we went eleven leagues in very bad way and
thick woods, soe yt. did not forward on our road above 3 leagues,
at night we took up our lodgings at ye west side of a small brook
yt. runs into ye N.N.W. side of ye lake, at this carrying place ye
trees are markt. Nov. 13. Provisions now began to grow very
short, and we were forced to continue at our sd. lodgings this
day and send ye Indians a hunting for bever, and had ye good
fortune to kill four, wh. gave them a supper as well as breakfast,
for they had nothing else that day. This last 24 hours we had
good weather till 7 at night, and then snow all night. Nov. 14.
We began our journey this morning over a great mountain one
league and halfe up, and about a league down, and came to a
small lake a mile long ye ice good, wh. we passed and came to
another carrying place a league long, our course all north, the
trees here were marked wh. brought us to another Lake 2 miles
long, went over ye ice very thin, it bent under us every step we
took, but at last gott over wth. much difficulty and risque of our
lives, being forced to creep on our bellys halfe ye way, and it
rained and snow'd all day, ye wind S.E., at length we came to a
carrying place a league long, our course still N., and then to Lake
which not being froze forced us to goe round ye South end of it
all along into rocky way, and thick of bushes hardly passable, we
went S.E. a league, and E. a league and halfe and N.E. a league
and N. a league, and forced to wade over severall rivers as high
as our waste, we then came to another lake about two miles over,
course still N. where we took up our lodging on the north side,
the ice good and thick. We made a wigwam, were all wett to ye
skin and had travelled very hard all day about 10 leagues, and
now our bread was all spent. Nov. 15. We began our march
early this morning, the weather very stormy with wind, snow and
clowdy, and went over a carrying place two leagues course N.N.W.
generally the trees mark't, we then came upon a lake and went N.W.
a mile, and then W. a mile, and full of islands, and there stop't, and
sent two Indians to ye great Lake to see if it was froze; they
brought us word no ice, which indeed was very unwelcome news,
the course they went is west, there is but a small carrying place
from hence to ye great Lake; now we resolved to head ye great
Lake, and steer'd north over ye little one, a mile, and went into
ye woods N.E. two leagues, and then came upon a branch of the
Great Lake and cross't it two mile over course N.E., and then
crossed a neck of land a league, and came upon another branch a
league over course E., here we could see into ye lake at least 10
leagues W.N.W., we now steer'd S.E. a league, and came to
another branch a league over S.S.E. and a mile over another
branch course south a league, and then another branch a mile
over S.E., and another ye same course two mile over, and another
a mile over south, between all these branches there are small
necks of land, and extraordinary bad way, and thick of cedars
and spruce, but ye ice strong which was some comfort to us, in
ye body of ye lake and ye branches are abundance of Islands; we
took up our lodgings upon a neck of land, having travell'd this
day extreem hard 13 leagues, and were hardly put to it for provisions. Our supper was two bevers, which an[d] Indian killed
and was a feast among us all. Nov. 16. This morning early we
began our march, and went cross a neck two leagues course S.E.,
and came upon a small river, which went into ye lake N.E. halfe
a league, and cross't another branch one league, and then travell'd
alongside of ye Lake two leagues very bad woods course east, we
then left it, and steer'd S.E. four leagues through ye most prodigious, dolefull woods yt. ever I saw; here we took up our
lodging the weather extreem cold and cloudy, and ye wind blew
violently and it snow'd till morning. Travell'd this day eight
leagues and halfe. Nov. 17. We sett out betimes and travelled
very hard, ye woods being something better than before, and
after we had gone about six leagues, came to a river about 100
yards wide, wch. we were forced to wade over, some places above
our midles, this River runs into a great Lake course W.N.W., and
about 6 leagues farther we took up our lodging having marcht
12 leagues, our course N.N.E., this night we killed four bever,
upon wch. our Indians feasted all night, having no regard to ye
shortness of provisions, for they never make two wants of one.
Nov. 18. We sett out betimes in ye morning, ye wind S.W. blew
hard and snowed; about 10 a'clock we came to a Lake a mile over,
ye ice good, we travell'd 4 leagues; and about 4 leagues farther
met a large lake of 3½ leagues long, and about a league over, with
great bayes in it, and extreem bad woods round it, we was forced
to goe ye length of it; the ice was here soe very thin yt. it bent in
waves under us every step we took, and sometimes were forced
to creep on our bellyes with a long pole in our hands to save us if
it should break; this was hazardous to ye last degree, and had we
not been at such scarcity of provisions, would never have dar'd
to be so venturesome; but Death was before us, and ye impossibility of heading ye Lake seem'd as formidable as starving,
besides ye Indians were resolved to goe over being sharp sett with
hunger, as well as we, wch. caused us to doe now, what at another
time would seem little better than madness to doe, but blessed
be God at last gott all safe over; there are abundance of Islands
in this Lake, wch. is ye head of one of ye branches of Penobscot
River, here you see the whole length of ye Lake, and near the
N.E. end a great bay, runs S.W.; we went a league down sd.
River on ye ice. This day's journey was 12½ leagues; we killed
one hare this day and rested after our melancholly journey.
Nov. 19. It was this morning very bad weather, ye wind S.E.
with abundance of rain, however we began our march early, and
went along ye side of one of ye branches of Penobscot River a
league North, and then mett with ye greatest eastermost branch,
wch. runs W. and N.N.W. generally; here ye ice was good; but
we were forced to waid up to ye ankles by reason of ye rain; we
went up sd. river 5 leagues and then it run S.W.; here comes a
small river into ye great one at ye North side, wch. we took and
went a league up; it runs cheifly N.N.W., but very crooked, we
waded up ankle deep on ye ice, which was very thin, but gott over
safe, we had travelled seven leagues this day and were all wett to
ye skin, myselfe very ill with a flux occasioned by ye colds, and
scarcity of provisions; we took up our lodgings on ye west side
of ye Little River and made a wigwam. Nov. 20. It was still
bad weather and rained till 8 at night, and then snowed all ye
rest of ye night, ye wind N.E., were forced to continue here this
day, there being no travelling, ye rivers being too high and ye ice
too weak to bear us. Our Indians killed one bever. Nov. 21.
We could not yet remove from our lodgings, ye river being soe
high and ye ice all thawed and gone, and extreem bad weather
with snow and ye wind still N.E., we gott no provisions in hunting,
so were forced to hall very shorte. Nov. 22. Still snow and
bad weather, ye wind N.E., however we ventured on our journey
and travelled on ye South side of ye Little River N.W. three
leagues and then came upon a Lake which drowned the land very
bad, some of our company fell in severall times. Our course
was North 3 leagues, extreem bad travelling, the water being
ankle deep upon ye ice, we were then forced to leave yt. and struck
into ye woods, our course N.W. 3 leagues, the woods very bad, and
hardly passable, we travell'd eight leagues this day, and here
took up our lodging, having killed 4 parteridges in our march.
Nov. 23. The wind blew hard at N.E. with snow, and extreem
bad weather, nevertheless began our march, and had a fatiguing
day of it. About two in ye afternoon we came cross our own
track, soe found we were out of our way, ye course we intended
was N.W., we were forced to leave a small river by reason ye ice
would not bear us, wch. was much to our disadvantage. We
travelled this day hard at least 10 leagues, and beleive we did not
advance five on our way; we this day killed two parteridges, and
our provisions grows very shorte, soe yt. we have but one small
meal a day. Nov. 24. The weather being clear but extreem
cold N.N.W. wind we begun our march early this morning, and
about 12 a clock we came upon a bever dam, and had ye good
fortune to kill a bever, wch. was very acceptable to us; the woods
here were very bad to travell, soe went but 8 leagues this day,
and at night took up our lodgin at ye foot of a large mountain.
Our course was cheifly N.W., we had a good supper of ye bever,
which was more than we had three days before. Nov. 25. Our
breakfast this morning was a walk over this mountain, wch. was
prodigious high and steep, course N.W., with great fatigue
arrived to ye top, and could see a vast way, all round it, tho'
not with much pleasure. About 12 a clock we came to a Lake
two leagues long and a mile wide, here had formerly been a
wigwam and trees marked for two leagues on ye other side of it;
we then cross't a river which runs S.W. and mett with great
difficulty, and about a league farther we took up our lodging,
having this day travell'd eleven leagues, wh. extreemly tyred us,
the ways were soe very bad, the weather was pretty tollerable all
day, ye wind N.W., but at night it came about S.E. with rain and
snow. Nov. 26. The weather continued stormy and tempestuous
with snow, and rain, wind S.E. We travell'd but 5 leagues, all
wett to ye skin, and nothing to refresh us (inside or out) our shoes
torn of our feet, and ourselves almost out of heart, we sat down
by a small brook, which runs North, and built our wigwam, sent
our men a hunting, who had ye good fortune to kill a bever, all
our other provisions salt and fresh were spent, we eat ye bever
and made shoes of ye skin, which was some releife to us. Our
course this day as near as we could guess was most N.W., these
woods are ye worst that ever I passed. Nov. 27. We went out
all hands bever hunting this day, the storm and snow being soe
violent could not travail, we killed two bevers, were wett to ye
skin, and return'd to our wigwam, wind still S.E. Nov. 28. The
snow continued, nevertheless began our march very early without our breakfast, found it intolerable travelling through thick
bushes and trees that almost tore our flesh, but we marched very
hard, and about one a clock came to a River wh. runs E.N.E.,
and we cross't it with great hazzard, and on each side was ye
worst woods that can possibly be imagined, this day travell'd
10 leagues, course generally N.W., we had nothing at all to eat
only as we bark't ye trees, of which I eat my supper. Nov. 29.
This day was very unsteady weather, sometimes snow, and
sometimes clear, ye morning tolerable travelling, but the midle
of the day soe bad, we thought we could never gett through, but
towards night something better, we travell'd at least 10 leagues
passed severall small rivers, but mett no living creature, and
reduced to extreem want, forced to eat ye bark of trees and ye
roots. Nov. 30. It was cloudy, wind N.W. and snow, we sett out
and travailed very hard, pretty good woods, about 9 of ye clock
came to a river which runs South, and about a league farther
found two wigwams where Indians lived last winter, and about
11 a clock came to a Lake, about a mile every way, ye ice good,
and had ye good fortune to kill two porcupines, wch. weighed
about 8 lb., and was a great releife to us, we travailed 9 leagues
this day, course generally N.W. Dec. 1st. Rained and snowed,
we travailed extreem hard, ye woods pretty good but very
mountainous. About eleven a clock mett two small rivers
run N.N.E., wh. they say are branches of ye River St. Johns.
Just at night arrived at ye top of a prodigious high mountain
from whence we could see ye mountains on ye north side of
Quebeck, we lodged on ye west side of this mountain having
travail'd 12 leagues all fasting. Dec. 2. This morning march't
very early, and about 10 came to a small brook which runs north,
here was a bever dam, spent great part of ye day here in hopes to
meet with provisions, but gott none. This day travail'd 6
leagues almost spent for want of victualls. The last 24 hours
had much rain, which rendered ye brooks almost impassable,
they were soe high, the wind still at South. Dec. 3. We travailed hard till 2 a clock, were all wett to ye skin, spent much
time at a bever dam, but gott nothing, wch. discouraged us very
much, ye ways were much better than before. We travailed
8 leagues, course cheifly N.W., and took up our lodging, being
very weak, and faint for want of food. It was very cloudy with
rain and snow a foot and halfe thick. Dec. 4. It was very heavy
travailing by reason of ye snow, nevertheless we travailed extreem
hard all day course North, at two a clock came to a great River,
which made us jump for joy, thinking it was Quebeck River, but
as much discouraged when we saw our mistake, were forced to
travail alongside of it, the ice was so rotten, it runs north, and
we took up our lodging within night; had nothing to eat, and
was very faint, we travailed 11 leagues this day, very unsettled
weather, the woods and bushes covered with snow, and this night
rained ye first part of it, and snowed ye latter part at least a foot
and halfe deep. Dec. 5. Our scarcity of victualls had almost
reduced us to ye last extremity, we were weak and faint, and ye
ways soe heavy and sloppy wth. snow and rain, yt. we were now
almost ready to give out. Now we went over ye river, wch. was
soe rotten, one of our Indians fell in, and we had like to have lost
him; we travailed on with as much expedition, as our feeble
circumstances would admitt, and at four of ye clock we were
much fatigued, and came to a house. I cannot express ye joy I
felt at so comfortable a sight. We went in and had what the
house could afford to refresh us, staid till near night, rewarded ye
good man whose name was D'bourne, and went about a league
farther, where we saw three housen more, which were at ye side
of ye Quebeck River, and found very civill treatment from one
John Demare, where we lodged, having travailed 12 leagues this
day, ye weather overcast, wind N.E. Dec. 6. This morning
Monsr. Casteen sent an express to ye Governor Generall to
acquaint him of our arrivall, who immediately sent Monsr.
L'favour and two canoes with some wine and brandy to present
us, which was very acceptable to us, soe we proceeded on our
journey to Quebeck, where we arrived about sun sett. I immediately waited upon the Governor and delivered him my
letters; He received me with all imaginable marks of civillity,
and ordered me lodgings in ye fort in his house. Dec. 7. I had
ye Governor's slay and paid a visitt to ye Intendant, who very
hansomly received me, and soe did all ye Gentlemen in town.
Dec. 8. I waited upon ye Governor with my Instructions,
which were interpreted by Monsr. Deleno, one of ye Councill. I
desired yt. I might be dispatch'd without delay, wh. ye Governor
promised me I should. I took up of him 1000 livers french
money to buy myselfe and servant cloaths, for I had not so much
as a shirt for to wear, that I had on I had worne 44 days, my
cloathing were all lost when ye canoe oversett, severall English
prisoners came to visitt me at my lodging, whom I supplyed with
money, I demanded of ye Governor Mr. Williams daughter, he
told me it was not in his power to gett her; she was among the
Indians, and as for ye prisoners in their hands, he could not
ingage for their exchange, for they were his Allies. Dec. 9. I
went in ye Governor's slay attended by an officer and the interpreter to wait upon Monsr. Deleno in ye lower town, where severall
English prisoners came to see me. Dec. 10. I supped at ye
Intendants, was very hansomly entertained, ye Governor, Gentlemen and Ladies of ye town were guests, and were diverted with
musick and dancing. Dec. 11. I made some visitts in town, at
night ye Governor treated nobly with musick and dancing. This
day Johnson Harman, an English prisoner taken at Winter
Harbour came to see me. Dec. 12. Severall prisoners were
admitted to see me, they pleaded necessity of releife, and I lett
them have £24 6s. money, at ye rate of 8s. per ounce. Dec. 13.
This day I applyed myselfe to ye Governor General, and earnestly
desired him to dispatch me. He said that he had sent an express
to Mount Royall for two gentlemen to goe with me for New England, and that he could not dispatch me till they arrived, which
would be in a few days. I with impatience waited their comeing.
Dec. 20. I paid ye four Indians yt. came with me 60 peices of
eight per man for their journey. Dec. 21. Being their New
Year's Day sup't this night at the Intendants, had a splendid
entertainment with musick and dancing, and had ye drums and
musick at my door, and many of ye English prisoners came to
me this day, to whom I gave money, and to ye servants of ye
house as is customary. Dec. 24. The Gentlemen who are to go
with me arrived, names M. Romvelle and Depeiu. Dec. 25. I
had many English prisoners and others to wish me Merry Christmass, wh. cost me much money, amongst them; The Govr.
Genll. had a supper this night, where were at least 50 persons of
distinction, and ye whole entertainment in great splendour.
Dec. 26. The weather was very moderate, soe as was hardly ever
known at this time of year. The Governor Generall and myselfe
were invited to sup at ye Intendant's, where was much company,
great plenty, with dancing and musick to admiration. Dec. 27.
I moved ye Governor for my dispatch, telling him I was very
uneasie at so long stay, and altho' ye ways were so bad, I would
venture for New England, he told me it was impossible for me to
pass ye Rivers, ye ice not being strong to bear me, but said he
would dispatch me speedily. Jan. 1 st. This being our New
Years Day, ye English prisoners came to see me, and wish me a
merry new year, I knew their meaning and gave them money.
Jan. 2. The weather is now very cold. I am in hopes in a few
days ye ice will be strong enough to bear us, yt. we may sett
forward on our journey home. Jan. 3. I gave ye Govr. Genll.
Bills of Exchange on Mr. John Borland in Boston, for 4000 livers
I had of him for H.M. services. Jan. 4. We had news from
Mount Royall yt. ye River was not yet froze over. Jan. 5. I
discharged all my debts, yt. I might be ready to goe at a minute's
warning. Jan. 7. I discoursed with ye Govr. Genll. about his
answer to Genll.Nicholson's letters, he promised to give me a coppy
of his answer in English and sign it for a true coppy, and when
M. Romvelle and M. Depeiu came to Boston, if Genl. Nicholson
should be gone, they are ordered to deliver his letters to me, and
promised yt. I should see their Instructions before my departure.
I supped this night at ye Intendants, was there nobly entertained
at ye expence of his son. I am in hopes to begin my journey
to-morrow for Mount Royall; a post arrived from Morall, and
brings news of peace. Jan. 8. We had stormy weather
and snow this four and twenty hours till ye afternoon, then
cleared up cold; M. Deleno is translating ye Governor's letters to Genll. Nicholson, which is ye only thing I now stay
for. Jan. 9. I have now all ye letters, am obliged to stay this
day for M. Romvelle and Depew, who are not yet ready.
I had a great entertainment this night at ye Governor's.
Jan. 10. The last 24 hours had snow and some rain, the wind
N.E., this day having taken our leave of ye Govr. Genll, and
Gentlemen, begun our journey in three sleys, the road pretty
good, and about 5 a clock we arrived at Ponat of Trambell, where
we lodged, and was there visitted by some English prisoners, to
whom I gave money, one Whiting was one of them. This day
we had some difficulty in passing a river upon ye ice at Cape Rose,
which is 3 leagues from Quebeck, and about four to Captain
Misterell's, where I lodged; my man this day was taken very sick
of a feaver; we have had ye wind at S.W. this day, with rain and
snow till night, and then cleared up cold. Jan. 11. We sett
out forward betimes, the wayes were very bad, and we were
fatigued in crossing ye river called Jacke Corly, ye ice being
very thin, we came there about twelve a clock, and two leagues
farther took up our lodging, having travailed only 5 leagues
this day, my good man continues very sick still. We have
had ye wind at N.W. this day and very cold. Jan. 12. We
have had bad way this day, till we came to M. Baken Corse at
Port Nuff, wch. is about two leagues, then it grew something better
till we came to Grondera three leagues farther, and came to
Shamblin, and lodged at ye house of Madam Laranda, having
this day travailed 9 leagues, we had very bad weather this day,
much rain etc. Jan. 13. We could not stir this day by reason
of ye bad weather, and my man is soe sick, am afraid I must
leave him behind; the wind N. very cold. Jan. 14. This
morning sett out at 5 a clock and found ye wayes better than
we expected, at 7 a clock came to ye River Bastescamk, wh. is
two leagues, and at 12 a clock arrived at a Cape about 4 leagues,
where we were oblidged to leave our sleys, being to pass three
rivers in canoes, which with much difficulty by reason of ye ice
we accomplished, at two a clock arrived at ye Town of Troy
River, where resides Govr. Gallfatte, we waited upon him, and
were oblidged to goe and take a supper with him, and were very
hansomly treated; I am forced to leave my man in an Hospitall
in this place, he continueing so very sick, can carry him no farther;
Here is a speciall care taken in this Hospitall of those yt. are sick.
I left money with him to defray his necessary charges. We came
seven leagues this day had changeable weather etc. Jan. 15.
We sett out this morning at five with 3 sleys, and at three arrived
at St. Franceway, and cross't ye Lake of St. Pear, which is 6
leagues, had much difficulty because the ice was so bad; at ye
mouth of ye Lake Monsr. Romvelle parted from us for Mount
Royall, we being bound to Shamblin, where he is to meet us.
This morning before day to save time, went to see my man at ye
Hospitall. who is very sick, but hath great care taken of him; we
came 9 leagues this day, the weather clear and cold till night and
then snowed, ye wind N.E. Jan. 16. Begun our journey very
early, and at 10 a clock arrived at Fort Sorell, was civilly entertained by Capt. De Sholoine, ye Commadore, and din'd with him,
having come four leagues. Here we parted from ye Great River,
and took ye River Shamblee, and went up sd. River four leagues,
and took up our lodgings at ye Islands of St. Torre in ye woods
having come 8 leagues, this day we had snow and ye wind at N.E.
till one a clock, and then clear and cold, ye wind west. Jan. 17.
We began to march at five this morning and went 2 leagues up
ye River Shamblee, but found little ice in the river, and yt. very
rotten, M. Pecy fell in over head and ears, the river wholly clear
of ice farther up, so forced to return to said Island, and from
thence went over ye carrying place one league, and came to Fort
St. Toer, and along the side of Quebeck River two leagues, and
came to a fort Counter Cure, and two leagues farther was another
small fort called Counter Cure, and two leagues farther another
fort named —, and having travailed 8 leagues this day, we lodged
at Madam Lapare's, ye weather clear and cold. Jan. 18. We
began our journey very early and came to a fort two leagues from
ye other, and two leagues farther came to a stone fort at a place
called Longuill and there dined, and from thence marched cross
ye woods to Shamblee, ye road being extreem bad, at 4 a clock
arrived at Monseiur Artell's being five leagues, was there complimented by Capt. De Gorde the Commadore of ye Fort with
other officers, and Gentlemen. Our day's journey was nine
leagues, weather clear. Jan. 19. Here we attended for Mons.
Romvelle, and ye Frenchman who arrived at 4 a clock afternoon,
the same day came four Indians to goe with us to Albany, to
whom I promised 150 livers per man for their journey, and spent
ye rest of ye day in preparation for ye same, and in receiving
visitts from severall gentlemen who came from Mount Royall to
see us, we had foule weather with snow and rain this last 24 hours,
ye wind southerly. Jan 20. Wee getting ready for our departure
to-morrow: I had a hansom entertainment made by ye Commadore Capt. De Gourde at my lodging, ye weather was good till
night, then snowed till twelve, then clear till morning, ye wind
N.E. Jan. 21. At 8 a clock this morning we began our journey
being 13 of us, vizt., 8 Frenchmen, 4 Indians, and myselfe. The
Commadore with severall other gentlemen yt. came from Mount
Royall gave us their company as far as ye carrying place, we had
sent our equipage before to Fort St. Trees, wh. is two leagues,
when we arrived there found our sleads all out of order by reason
of ye badness of ye way, soe went upon the ice a league, and took
up our lodging a league farther at ye west side of ye river, at 3 a
clock, and there mended our sleads and canoes, we came 3 leagues
course S.S.W. generally, all ye way to St. Trees is riplings, we
had a detachment of 8 men to goe with us three dayes; this last
24 hours had good weather till night, then snow and rain, ye wind
at South. Jan. 22. This morning at break of day begun to move
forward and went halfe a league upon ye ice, then was forced
to strike into ye woods halfe a league, and come to Fort St.
Johns, and from thence went upon the ice 5 leagues, and came to
a place where was 3 wigwams, here we found 3 good canoes on
ye west side of ye river, over against Small River, ye ice was very
bad, and two men with 3 sleys fell into ye ice, and I wett my
Journall, we went 6 leagues this day, ye course generally S.W.
Here we made three sleys to draw ye canoes on, and sent two men
to see how far ye ice continued, they brought word a league and
halfe; we had snow and rain all this day, the wind hard S.E. We
lodged this night in a wigwam. Jan. 23. We continued still
where we were yesterday by reason of ye bad weather, wind N.E.,
and snow till night, and then clear and cold, ye wind N.W. Jan.
24. We drew our bagage a league through the woods, then took
up our canoes with some of our things to cross over to ye Island
of Tate, where we landed with great difficulty of ye ice, we sent
back ye 8 men that we received at Shamblee, and went about two
leagues farther, and mett a bar of ice, soe were forced to take up
our lodging this night on the west side of ye river, we came this
day 6 leagues, course generally S.S.W. Jan. 25. The weather
clear and cold, wind N.W., we entered into our canoes in ye
morning, and went about a league and mett with ice, soe were
forced to return to our wigwam, not being able to land for ye ice,
here we made sleys to draw our canoes, and began our march at
9 a clock, and at two met four Indians which came from Albany,
had twelve days passage, brought no news, we came 7 leagues
this day, course generally S.S.W., and took up our lodging at ye
west side of ye Lake, about a league to ye southward of Fort
Lemotte Island, where we had water at night, but in ye morning
ice as far as we could see, but not strong enough to bear us.
Jan. 26. We were forced to stay at our wigwam this day by
reason ye ice was not strong enough to bear us; the weather was
moderate, cloudy, ye wind at N.E., at night snow and rain.
Jan. 27. The ice was very thin, yet we ventured 3 leagues into
ye Lake, and mett with water, we then embarqued and crossed
ye Lake, where we found ice in severall places, and soe was forced
to take up our lodging within night on the east side of ye Lake,
about a league to ye southward of Rogeo. We went this day 12
leagues, nine by water and travailed three, course generally S.S.W.
ye wind was S.W., with some snow and cloudy. Jan. 28. At
11 a clock was embarqued and mett with a great sea, ye wind
ahead, but went on our journey with great difficulty, and took up
our lodging within night about a league to ye southward of ye
Otter Creek, we come this 6 leagues course generally S.W., ye
weather cloudy and wind S.W. till night, and then clear. Jan.
29. This morning sett out very early, and went 3 leagues in our
canoes, and then mett with ice, wh. would not bear us, soe was
forced to goe in ye woods 3 leagues to ye Scalping Point, we
had very difficult travailing this day, forwarding but 7 leagues,
our dogs could not draw in ye woods, so was forced to carry all,
here we left our canoes; at night there came to us a Benecke and
his squaw, and told us there was at ye Little Fall of ye wood
Creek ten wigwams of sd. Nation, who were gone a hunting.
Jan. 30. This last 24 hours the weather clear. This morning
had pretty good travailing till noon, then the snow thawed, and
made it very heavy travailing, when we had gone nine leagues,
we took up our lodging on ye east side of ye drownded land; in
ye morning we mett three Benecks and ten squaws drawing their
canoes on ye ice. Jan. 31st. We sett out at 4 a clock in ye
morning and travailed hard in pretty good way. Arrived at ye
fall of Wood Creek about 11 a clock, which is nine leagues from
our wigwam. We marched 4 leagues farther upon sd. Creek,
severall places there was no ice, soe was forced to travail in ye
woods; we came this day 13 leagues, course generally S.S.W.
This last 24 hours had ye weather good till noon, then snow the
wind N.E. Feb. 1st. At 5 this morning we began our march,
and at 11 arrived at ye fort at Wood Creek, and went across the
carrying place, and about a mile below it we took up our lodging
on ye west side of Albany River, and there made a good wigwam,
this day we travailed 9 leagues, course generally S.S.W., ye weather
good, ye wind S.W. Feb. 2. Began our journey this morning
before 5 of ye clock and arrived at Fort Ingoldsby at 10 a clock;
there I left the French gentlemen, and went post to Albany,
where I arrived at 6 at night, and provided for the Gentlemen at
ye halfe moon. I came 14 leagues this day, waited upon ye
Commissioner, and demanded horses to dispatch us for Boston
with all speed, ye weather, good and wind W. Feb. 3rd. The
Commissioner denyed to provide for ye French gentlemen, soe
took up my lodgings for them at my brother Livingstone's, where
they arrived at 8 a clock this night. Feb. 4. I forwarded as
much as possible for my journey to Boston, and they promised
that they would press horses for us, but I must pay all ye charge.
Feb. 5. At 4 in ye afternoon sett out from Albany with ye
French gentlemen, and went to Capt. Dowes where we lodged,
and had two men and nine horses, in order for New England.
Feb. 6. We sett out early this morning and arrived at Kinderhook at 2 a clock, and dined at Peter Martin's, lodged at Abraham
Dewers, had two Dutch men to goe with us to bring ye horses
back from Woodberry, must give them each 10 peices of eight
and three and a halfe for each horse, we had good weather.
Feb. 7. Was a terrible storm at S.E. with snow. We sett out
about 5 in ye morning, and rode in ye snow as far as the Mannour
of Livingstone. This day went 8 leagues. Feb. 8. I went to
Jacob Vosbury's two leagues, and gott oats and necessarys for
our horses to goe through the woods. Feb. 9. Travailed 12
leagues this day and lodged at Sacketts farm, ye weather cloudy
and cold, ye wind N.E. Feb. 10. This morning began our
journey very early, went as far as Weantinuck by one of ye clock,
and at seven arrived at Woodberry, where lodged having travailed
this day 15 leagues; I sent an express to Governor Saltonstall
and Councill of war at Hartford. Feb. 11th. This morning sett
out at 5 a clock, the weather moderate, but ye snow very deep.
We arrived at Waterbury and there dined, and soe proceeded and
came to Farmington where we lodged having travailed this day
11 leagues, course N.E. Feb. 12. This last 24 hours had abundance of rain, ye wind at South. We gott to Hartford this day,
and were all wett to ye skin. I took up lodgings at one Worth
ington's, came five leagues, course E.N.E. Feb. 13, 14, 15. The
weather was soe bad we could not travail, the rivers were soe
high, only on Thirsday went as far as Glostenbury, which is three
leagues. Feb. 16. The weather was pretty tolerable, soe we
sett out very early this morning, and came to Colchester at 11
and there dined, and proceeded on our journey, and at 6 gott to
New London; I sent post before to Governour Saltonstall to
acquaint him I was coming, with some French gentlemen. Travailed this day 15 leagues. Feb. 17, 18. The wind blew extreem
hard so yt. we could not cross the ferry. Feb. 19. Being Monday
we came as far as Thomsons which is 7 leagues and there lodged.
Feb. 20. The weather not being good, could gett no farther than
Mr. Champlin's, wh. was four leagues, and there we lodged.
Feb. 21st. We sett out at 5 a clock in ye morning, at 7 at night
we arrived at Providence, and lodged at Mr. Whiples, came 15
leagues this day, very bad travailing, the rivers very high. Feb.
22. We went to Seaconck, and thence to Billings's, being 10
leagues and there lodged. Feb. 23. This day we arrived at
Boston. 21 pp. [C.O. 217, 31. No. 1.] |
