The household below stairs: King's Kitchen 1660-1837

Kings Kitchen 1660–1837

This sub-department was until 1761 officially designated the King's privy kitchen to distinguish it from the Queen's privy kitchen and the household kitchen. With the disappearance of these two subdepartments after 1761 it was known simply as the kitchen. This description has been employed throughout the period covered by these lists. The establishment consisted of master cooks appointed by royal warrant, yeomen, grooms and children appointed by lord steward's warrant, and turnbroaches, scourers, soil carriers and door keepers appointed by the clerks of the green cloth (or, from 1782, the clerks of the household) in rotation.

Originally there was one master cook. A second was appointed in 1683, a third served 1698–1718 and 1737–61 and a fourth 1702–9. In 1662 the wages were fixed at £11 8s 1½d, plus diet, livery and lodging. The board wages, settled then at £219, were subject to fluctuation under Charles II, falling to £80 in 1680. However, the Establishment of that year provided an additional £91 5s 'for Lambstone, pallato, sweetherbs, Marrow-bones, Cocks-combs, Newland Eggs, etc.' In 1685 the two master cooks were granted salaries of £150 and £80. In 1689 the remuneration of the first master cook was fixed at £150 consisting of wages of £11 8s 1½d and board wages of £138 11s 10½d; that of the others at £120 consisting of the same wages and board wages of £108 11s 1½d. In 1761 the two remaining master cooks were granted salaries of £150 and £130 and allowances in lieu of diet of £87 10s each. Finally, by 1810 the second master cook was allowed an additional £65 in lieu of house rent, coal and candles. (fn. 1)

In 1812 the master cooks were reduced to sinecure status at St. James's with salaries of £172 and £158, respectively. The holders of both offices died within the year. At the same time two effective master cooks were appointed at Carlton House both with salaries of £221. These were absorbed into the main Household in 1820. In 1822 they were replaced by three cooks: a chief with a salary of £240 raised to £250 in 1830; a first master with a salary of £221 reduced to £200 in 1830; and a second master with a salary of £150. (fn. 2)

In addition, two roasting cooks, appointed by the lord steward, were established at Carlton House in 1822 at £80 per annum apiece. From 1830 the second such servant was reduced to £70 and both became simply 'roasting cooks'. The woman cook at Carlton House was also appointed by the lord steward and made £58 per annum. (fn. 3)

According to The Present State of the British Court, yeomen of the kitchen were chiefly responsible for soups and ragouts. One yeoman was appointed in 1660, with a second serving by early 1662. The number was fixed in principle later that year at one, with two supernumeraries, although there were in fact frequent temporary increases. There were two yeomen by 1674; four by 1698, five 1701–2 before falling again to four at the accession of Queen Anne. The number was fixed at seven in 1715, then at four in 1727, but grew again to seven by 1740, probably as a result of the absorption of the yeomen of the Queen's kitchen disbanded on her death in 1737.

In 1662 the remuneration was fixed at wages of £5. The board wages, settled then at £30 8s 4d, were subject to fluctuation between £30 and £50 under Charles II. In 1685 salaries of £50 were provided. In 1689 these were converted to wages of £5 and board wages of £45 raised in 1699 to £55. In 1761 two yeomen were appointed with salaries of £70 and allowances of £60 consolidated into a salary of £130 in 1782. A third yeoman was appointed in 1772. In 1806, the positions of two yeomen of the mouth and yeoman pottagier were split from those of first, second and third yeomen, resulting in six yeomen's positions. The position of third yeoman of the mouth was abolished in 1807. (fn. 4)

In 1812 three yeomen were transferred to the Windsor establishment and a fourth became a sinecure at St. James's. At the same time provision was made for a yeoman of the mouth and a yeoman of the kitchen at Carlton House, each with a salary of £113, who were absorbed into the main Household in 1820. In 1822 these were replaced by two yeomen of the mouth with salaries of £109 and £100 and two yeomen of the kitchen with salaries of £80 and £60, respectively. In 1830 the salaries of the former were fixed at £110 and of the latter at £80. (fn. 5)

The grooms of the kitchen were responsible for boiled meats. One groom was appointed in ordinary in 1660; two in 1685, four by 1702. There was a temporary increase to five in that year. Five were appointed again in 1715. In 1741 the number had reached seven probably as a result of the absorption of grooms from the late Queen Caroline's kitchen. In 1662 the wages were fixed at £2 13s 4d. The board wages, fixed at £36 10s in 1664, fluctuated between £40 and £27 6s 8d under Charles II. In 1685 salaries of £30 were provided. In 1689 wages of £2 13s 4d and board wages of £37 6s 8d were substituted. Two grooms were appointed in 1761 with salaries of £60 and allowances of £40 consolidated into a salary of £100 in 1782. A third and fourth groom were appointed in 1771–2. (fn. 6)

In 1812 two grooms were transferred to the Windsor establishment; the remaining two were reduced to sinecure status at St. James's with salaries of £93, raised in the following year to £112. Their offices appear to have been suppressed by 1820. (fn. 7)

Children were responsible for roasting meats. Six children were appointed in 1660. Their number fell to two (with two supernumeraries) in 1662, then one (with seven supernumeraries) in 1664, before rising back to two in 1668, then three in 1680. The number fell again to two in 1685, rose to three by 1690, to four in 1701 and to six in 1715. It fell again to three in 1727 but had risen to eight by 1753. In 1662 wages were fixed at board wages of £18 5s. After 1664 they were awarded £2 plus board wages which fluctuated on the various establishments of Charles II between £22 6s 8d and £36 10s. In 1685 salaries of £25 were provided. In 1689 wages of £2 and board wages of £33 were substituted, the latter rising to £35 in 1699. Two children were appointed in 1761 with salaries of £50 and allowances of £40 consolidated into a salary of £90 in 1782. The number of children was increased to three in 1768, to four in 1779 and to five in 1797. In 1812 their allowances were calculated to be worth £36 per annum apiece (fn. 8)

In 1812 two children were transferred to the Windsor establishment; the remaining three were reduced to sinecure status at St. James's with salaries of £80, raised in the following year to £99 in compensation for the loss of allowances in kind. Their offices had 'no duties to perform' by 1815 and appear to have been suppressed by 1820. Supernumerary children were appointed between 1665 and 1690. (fn. 9)

The two apprentices, established by 1730, were appointed by the lord steward. These positions seem to have been abolished in 1761. Three kitchen boys were established at Carlton House in 1812. They made £15 per annum apiece. Their number rose to four about 1824. (fn. 10)

As established in June 1660, the royal kitchens (privy and household) had a total of 36 turnbroaches, appointed by the chief clerk and master cook in rotation. By the eighteenth century these servants seem to have been appointed by the clerks of the greencloth (from 1782, the clerks of the household) in rotation. The Establishment of 1662 provided for six turnbroaches at £18 5s per annum apiece with a further eighteen supernumeraries at £15 4s each. That of 1664 reduced the number in ordinary to four at the same wages, with 27 supernumeraries at £9 2s 6d apiece. In 1668 six turnbroaches in ordinary were named at the above wages, sixteen supernumeraries at £13 13s 9d apiece. James II's establishment lists three turnbroaches in ordinary plus fifteen supernumeraries at £12. William III raised the number in ordinary to six at £30 per annum in board wages and twelve supernumeraries at £12 in board wages. The latter lost their supernumerary status in favour of pensions of £12 per annum by the Establishment of 1 Oct. 1699. The number of ordinary turnbroaches fell to five in 1702, rose to eight in 1714; fell to four in 1727 and rose back to six in 1760. Despite the attack on 'turnspits' contained in Burke's speech on Economical Reform, this remained their number and remuneration until the place was abolished in 1815. (fn. 11)

A list from June 1660 gives a total of ten scourers and porters of the kitchens, all appointed by the clerks of the kitchen and master cooks in turn. By the eighteenth century, they appear to have been appointed by the clerks of the green cloth and then, from 1782, the clerks of the household in rotation. The Establishment of 1662 reduced their number to four at £15 4 s 2d apiece, with two supernumeraries at the same remuneration. That of 1664 provided for two scourers at £2 in wages and £18 5s board wages plus six supernumerary scourers at £2 and £9 2s 6 d apiece. The number of supernumeraries fell to two at £13 13s 9d in 1668; they were eliminated entirely in 1674. In 1685 one scourer was named at £25 per annum, with a second one added the following year. There were also four supernumeraries at £14 apiece. In 1689 three scourers in ordinary were raised to £2 and £28 in board wages, with two supernumeraries at £2 and £12 apiece. Their number in ordinary fell back down to two by 1699, with the supernumerary positions abolished in favor of pensions. Remuneration rose to £40 plus an allowance of £40 apiece by 1760. The Establishment of 1782 changed their title to master scourers to distinguish them from the new assistant scourers and under scourers. Their remuneration fell to £62 c. 1812 and the positions were abolished in 1815. Two scourers at Carlton House were appointed by the lord steward and paid £40 per annum. From 1817 they were referred to simply as master scourer and second scourer of the privy kitchen. (fn. 12)

The three assistant scourers were appointed by the lord steward and made £30 per annum apiece. (fn. 13)

The two soil carriers were appointed by the clerks of the green cloth (from 1782 the clerks of the household) in rotation. Under George II they made £20 per annum apiece in board wages. In 1782 this was raised to £25 and again by 1813 to £38. The kitchen maid, first established at Carlton House in 1812, received £40 per annum until the reign of George IV, when she was established at £30 per annum. (fn. 14)

At the Restoration, the two door keepers were appointed by the clerk of the kitchen and master cook in rotation. By the eighteenth century they were appointed by the clerks of the green cloth (from 1782, the clerks of the household) in turn. The Establishment of 1662 reduced their number to one at £18 5s board wages. The place was left out of the 1664 establishment but restored in 1668. In 1689 the doorkeeper's remuneration was raised to £30 per annum, which remained his compensation until about 1812, when the place was raised to £37 per annum apiece. The number of doorkeepers was raised to two 1699–1708, 1715–1727 and 1761–1815. (fn. 15)

Master Cooks 1660–1837

Master Cooks at Carlton House 1812–1820

Roasting Cooks at Carlton House 1817–1837

(From 1830 Roasting Cooks)

Woman Cook at Carlton House 1812–1837

Yeomen 1660–1837

Supernumerary Yeomen 1662–1683; 1686–1688

Grooms 1660–1837

Supernumerary Grooms 1662–1681

Children 1660–1820

Supernumerary Children (1662–1685; 1686–1688; 1690)

Apprentices by 1730–1761

Kitchen Boys (from c. 1820 Apprentices) at Carlton House 1812–1837

Turnbroaches 1662–1815

Supernumerary Turnbroaches 1662–1688

Scourers of the Privy Kitchen 1662–1815

Supernumerary Scourer 1662–1674; 1685–?1686

Scourers at Carlton House [later of the Privy Kitchen] 1812–1837

Master Scourer at Carlton House 1812–1837

Second Scourer at Carlton House by 1812–1837

Assistant Scourers [Servants to the Scourers] 1761–1815

Soil-Carriers 1714–1815

Kitchen Maid at Carlton House 1812–1837

Doorkeepers of the Privy Kitchen 1662–1664; 1668–1815

Supernumerary Doorkeeper of the Privy Kitchen 1685–1688