Whaddon

220. WHADDON.

(O.S. 6 in. ^(a)xiv. S.E. ^(b)xix. N.E.)

Ecclesiastical

^a(1). Parish Church of St. Mary, at the S. end of the village, is built of sandstone. The roofs are covered with lead, except those of the chancel and N. chapel which are tiled. Part of the walls of the Nave above the arcades may belong to a church built early in the 12th century; c. 1190 a North Aisle was added, and the N. wall of the nave pierced by an arcade of three bays, and a little later the nave and aisle were lengthened about 6½ ft. towards the E., a small bay being added to the arcade; c. 1200 the South Aisle was built, with an arcade of three bays. Between 1340 and 1350 much work was done, beginning with the rebuilding of the Chancel, and the insertion of new windows and doorways in the aisles, the outer side walls of the aisles being probably re-built; the North Chapel was then built, the arcades were re-built with the old material, and heightened, and the West Tower was added, slightly reducing the length of the nave. Late in the 15th or early in the 16th century the North and South Porches were added. The clearstorey of the nave was built early in the 16th century. The church was restored in 1889 and 1891, the tower in 1902, and the nave in 1906.

The church is interesting on account of the late 12th-century work in the N. arcade and that of c. 1200 in the S. arcade. Among the fittings the Pigott tomb in the N. chapel is noteworthy.

Architectural Description—The Chancel (18½ ft. by 15 ft.) has detail of the 14th century. The E. window has been much restored; it is of three lights and net tracery in a two-centred head with an external label which has carved head-stops: below the sill, inside and outside, is a moulded string-course. In the N. wall, opening into the N. chapel, is a two-centred arch of two chamfered orders; the outer order is continuous, and the inner rests on moulded corbels with small carved heads below them. In the S. wall, near the E. end, is a window of three trefoiled lights under a square head, all modern except the internal splays; further W. is a priest's doorway with a trefoiled ogee head and a small external label which has defaced stops; near the W. end of the wall is a low-side window with a trefoiled ogee head, retooled, and a transom. The two-centred chancel arch is of two chamfered orders; the outer order is continuous and the inner rests on slender semi-octagonal responds with moulded capitals; the moulded bases have been restored; on the W. side is a restored label. The North Chapel (26½ ft. by 16 ft.) has detail of the 14th century. In the E. wall is a window of three trefoiled ogee lights with tracery in a two-centred head. In the N. wall is a window of two cinque-foiled ogee lights with tracery in a two-centred head; the external label has carved head-stops. In the W. wall, opening into the N. aisle, is an arch similar to that between the chancel and N. chapel. The Nave, Aisles and Porches all have moulded parapets of late 16th-century date, much restored. The Nave (47½ ft. by 16 ft.) has a late 12th-century N. arcade and a S. arcade of c. 1200, both re-built and heightened in the 14th century: the N. arcade is of four bays, the easternmost bay being much narrower than the rest; the arches are pointed and of one slightly chamfered order, with chamfered and grooved labels on the S. side; the columns are circular; the easternmost has a plain splayed capital with a square moulded abacus; the second capital is carved with foliage and with two grotesque birds, and the third with foliage; all the bases are moulded; there are no responds, the easternmost arch rests on a plain chamfered impost, and the westernmost on a grooved and chamfered impost which was probably on a respond before the tower was built. The S. arcade is of three bays, with arches of similar detail to those of the N. arcade, but with slightly different labels; the circular columns have carved capitals with grooved abaci chamfered at the corners, the eastern capital being scalloped, and the others carved with leaves; the bases are moulded: the responds are chamfered; the eastern has a moulded impost and restored base, and the western a chamfered impost, and carved stops at the base. The clearstorey has, in the E. wall, over each side of the chancel arch, a plain square window, probably of the 16th century; the external stonework has been restored: in the S. wall are two 16th-century windows each of three uncusped lights under a square head; the mullions and external jambs have been restored. The North Aisle (8 ft. wide) has, in the N. wall, two windows; the eastern is of the 14th century, much restored, and of two cinque-foiled lights with a pierced uncusped spandrel in a pointed head; the western window is of two trefoiled ogee lights with tracery, all modern, except the external sill, a few jamb-stones, the internal splays and rear arch, which are of the 14th century: between the windows is the 14th-century N. doorway with moulded jambs and pointed head of two orders, and a moulded external label which has damaged head-stops. The South Aisle (8½ ft. wide) has, in the E. wall, a 14th-century window of three trefoiled lights with tracery in a pointed head; the moulded external label has head-stops. In the S. wall are two windows, each of three trefoiled ogee lights with tracery in a square head, externally nearly all modern, but with internal splays and rear arch of the 14th century: between the windows is the 14th-century S. doorway; it is similar to the N. doorway, but the jambs have been restored. The West Tower (12 ft. square) is of three stages with diagonal W. buttresses, a S.E. stair-turret and a modern embattled parapet. The 14th-century tower arch is two-centred and of three chamfered orders, the innermost continued down the jambs, which have moulded capitals and bases. In the S. wall, opening into the stair-turret, is a doorway with restored chamfered jambs and two-centred head. The W. doorway has a pointed moulded head, and a label with defaced head-stops, of late 14th-century date; the jambs are modern; the W. window is of three cinque-foiled lights, with blocked tracery in a pointed head and is almost all modern. The stair-turret has small loop lights, the lowest light being trefoiled. The second stage has a plain square-headed window in the S. wall and remains of a similar window in the N. wall below the clock; in the W. wall is a niche (see Fittings). In each wall of the bell-chamber is a window of two trefoiled lights with a pierced spandrel in a two-centred head, all modern externally, but with old internal splays and rear arch. The North Porch has a two-centred entrance archway of late 15th or early 16th-century date and of one chamfered order. The South Porch has an archway of the same date and design as that of the N. porch. In the W. wall is a window with a two-centred head. The 14th-century Roof of the N. chapel is steep-pitched, of two bays, with three trusses, cambered tie-beams, collar-beams with arched brackets, and curved wind-braces. The roof of the nave is flat-pitched, and the tie-beams, ridge and a few rafters are old. The roofs of the N. and S. aisles are also flat-pitched, and have plain timbers and wall-brackets, some of them resting on wooden corbels; both roofs have been restored.

Fittings—Bells: six and sanctus; 1st, 4th, 5th, 6th, by Anthony Chandler, 1671; sanctus, by George Chandler, 1682; cages old. Brasses and Indents. Brasses (see also Monument (1)): In nave—on W. respond of S. arcade, on an oak mount, (1) small tablet with inscription recording gift of clock to the church in 1673 by Amy, wife of John Emerton, daughter of John Allen, vicar of the parish; above inscription the words 'Anthony Chandler made me 1673'. In S. aisle—on S. wall, W. of doorway, (2) of Margret, wife of Thomas Myssenden, 1612, small kneeling figure of woman with ruff and high-crowned hat, verses and inscription carved in stone slab, small rectangular brass plate with incised figure of skeleton. Chests: In N. aisle— at W. end (now used as vestry), two, of oak, (1) large, with panelled front, sides and lid, fluted top rail, early 17th-century; (2) small, with inscription, partly covered by lock, dated 1698. Communion Table and Rails: table, of oak, six legs and moulded top and foot rails, 17th-century, top and two legs at the back modern; rails with some turned balusters and, on N. return, short length of rail having arabesque carving, 17th-century. Font: tapering circular bowl with moulded lower edge, resting on four attached shafts having moulded capitals and bases, and carved dog-tooth ornament between shafts, late 13th-century. Glass: In S. aisle—in E. window, in tracery, fragments, including two male heads, two half-figures of censing angels, flaming stars, other mixed fragments, all c. 1340. Monuments: In N. chapel—against E. end of N. wall, (1) of Thomas Pygott, of Whaddon, 'Sergeaunt at the Lawe', 1519, and Agnes (Forster) and Elizabeth (Eversby or Ewarby) his wives; elaborate canopied tomb of Purbeck marble, tomb with moulded slab on the top, base divided in front into seven panels, four narrow with trefoiled heads, three square with tracery and shields formerly having brass shields attached, similar square panel at each end; high moulded plinth; in front canopy forms flat arch supported by circular shafts carved with intersecting spiral bands forming lozenges, and having moulded capitals and bases, shafts continued up the angles of the canopy in octagonal form with moulded finials now broken away, similar shaft in middle of canopy; at ends semi-circular arches, resting at the back on semi-octagonal pilasters with moulded caps and bases; front and ends of canopy divided into two bands, the lower enriched with quatrefoils, the upper with four-leafed flowers; canopy surmounted by foliated cresting; coved soffit, with sunk and cusped tracery; on wall at back of tomb, brasses of three kneeling figures, man in sleeved coat, tippet and hood, and his two wives in pedimental head-dresses, all with inscribed scrolls issuing from their mouths; behind first wife brasses of two sons and three daughters, behind second wife three sons and two daughters, between man and other figures indent of crucifix with brass base, above man brass shield, quarterly 1 and 4, three picks for Pigott, 2 and 3, three hunting horns for Forster; second shield above second wife, with arms as above impaling—a saltire engrailed, and a chief with two molets pierced therein: indent of a third shield behind first wife; brass inscription in black-letter below figures: at W. end of N. wall, (2) apparently to Arthur, Lord Grey de Wilton, 1593, and Jane Sibill his widow, 1615, high shallow tomb with plain slab on the top; canopy formed of thick slab with moulded edges and a soffit carved with design of squares and circles, and supported on jambs of crude Renaissance design; on wall, at back, slab of Purbeck marble with inscription, much decayed, on edge of slab on top of tomb, painted inscription to Jane, Lady Grey de Wilton. Niche: Tower— in W. wall of second stage, outside, with trefoiled head, late 14th-century. Piscinae: In chancel— in S. wall, with moulded jambs and trefoiled head, chamfered sill and bowl, late 13th-century, re-set. In N. chapel—in S. wall, with chamfered cinque-foiled head, remains of fluted projecting bowl with groove for shelf in E. jamb, mid 14th-century. Plate: includes paten of 1683, inscribed as the gift of William Emmerton of London. Recess: In N. chapel—in N. wall, below window, with chamfered segmental arch and plain label, 14th-century. Sedilia: In chancel—below sill of S.E. window, recess with two stepped chamfered seats and shaped arm between them, stop-chamfered jambs, probably 14th-century. Stoups: In N. and S. aisles—E. of doorways, both with trefoiled ogee heads and chamfered jambs, bowls cut away flush with walls, 14th-century. Miscellanea: In nave— hanging on W. respond of S. arcade, alms-shovels, two, of oak, both dated 1643, one with initials 'R P' above date. In E. soffit of arch above font, wooden bracket carved with grotesque head of beast, with pulley at side for raising font-cover, not in use. In tower—clock, 17th-century (see also Brasses); fragments of carved stonework, (1) half-round spiral column, and (2) carved quarter-round capital, 12th-century, (3) moulded capital of shaft, and (4) semi-octagonal moulded capital of respond, similar to those of chancel arch, 14th-century.

Condition—Good, except W. wall of N. chapel which has been damaged by the flue of a stove.

Secular

^a (2). Enclosure and Moated Site, in Whaddon Park. Only traces now exist of a slight entrenchment enclosing an area of about 11 acres. Within the enclosure are the remains of a moated site, and the ground is otherwise much disturbed. Snellshall Priory, a Benedictine house founded c. 1219, is said to have stood upon the site.

Condition—Much denuded and altered.

^b (3). Homestead Moat, 1½ miles S.S.E. of the church, and about ¼ mile S.W. of Chase Farm.

^a (4). Farmhouse, on the W. side of the road, about 200 yards N. of the church, is of two storeys. The walls are of brick, almost entirely covered with rough-cast; the roofs are tiled. The house was built early in the 17th century on an L-shaped plan; a modern addition has been constructed in the internal angle on the S.W., making the plan square, and the original wings have been restored. The central chimney stack has three shafts; two of them are square, set diagonally on a rectangular base, and built of old thin bricks, restored at the top; the third shaft is modern.

Condition—Fairly good.

^a (5–6). The Lowndes Arms Inn, almost opposite to (4) and a Cottage, S. of the inn, are each of two storeys, built of brick and timber in the 17th century, on a rectangular plan, and now almost entirely covered with plaster and much altered. The inn has modern additions at the back, and roofs covered with slate. On the ground floor there are old ceiling-beams, one chamfered, and with moulded stops. The cottage has a tiled roof.

Condition—Of inn, good; of cottage, poor.

Monuments (7–10)

These cottages were built probably late in the 17th century, and were timber-framed, but have been almost entirely restored with modern brick. They are each of one storey and an attic and of rectangular plan, except (10). The roofs are thatched.

^a(7). Cottage, on the S. side of the Nash road, 120 yards N.W. of the church; the walls are covered with whitewash. One chimney of late 17th-century brick has been restored.

Church Lane, N. side

^a (8). Cottage, 170 yards S.E. of the church. One chimney stack is L-shaped on plan and of late 17th-century brick.

^a (9). Cottage, S.W. of (8), has a modern addition at the back.

^a (10). Cottage, 400 yards S.E. of the church, is of two storeys and of L-shaped plan.

Condition—Of all, fairly good.

Unclassified

^a (11). Tumulus, on Church Hill, is about 60 ft. in diameter at the base, and has an encircling ditch.

Condition—Good; a shaft has been sunk through the middle of the mound.

^b (12). Water Cultivation Works, 1⅓ miles S.E. of the church and 300 yards N.N.E. of Chase Farm, consist of parallel strips of soil separated by shallow ditches which communicate with each other. In the N. part of the work the ditches and islands run almost at right angles to those in the S. part. The ditches are now dry but were formerly fed by a small stream on the E.

Condition—Imperfect; the N. part is almost obliterated by Broadway Wood.